On New Year’s Day I bid farewell to Nebraska and began the three flight trip to Ireland. It started off stressful when my flight to Chicago was delayed twenty minutes and I only had an hour layover in Chicago to begin with. Then, once we landed, our gate was being used by another plane so we had to wait on the plane for close to a half hour before a new gate opened up. As we were waiting to leave the plane I told the flight attendant I needed to catch the London flight that had already been boarding for ten minutes by this point. She said that I should make it, but I’d have to run and run I did. I got to the gate breathless but before it closed anyway and then it was smooth sailing, make that flying, to London. At Heathrow Airport I had plenty of time to get to my gate for Dublin (quite a pleasant change) and before I knew it I was in Dublin and on a bus heading to the city centre. Once at my hotel, The Charles Stewart Bed & Breakfast, which was just off O’Connell Street, the main street in the city centre, it wasn’t long before I called it a night so that I’d be able to make the most of the following full three days in Ireland.

Chicago
The next day, Saturday, I spent exploring parts of Dublin that I hadn’t visited when I was there two and a half years earlier. I strolled across the bridge over the River Liffey to the area next to Trinity College.The first thing on the agenda was coffee, so I stopped into one of the many Starbucks in the city and with coffee in hand, made my way to St. Stephen’s Green. St. Stephen’s Green is a nice little park not far from the city centre and it has a little lake in the middle full of ducks, seagulls, swans and at least one heron. I walked from one end to the other of the park taking a good quantity of pictures, mostly of the beautiful swans, before deciding to warm up inside the huge shopping center right next door. I didn’t buy anything, but had a fun time walking around and enjoying the sights. It was a really cool mall with a glass roof and neat decorations. It seemed vaguely familiar so I may have been inside it on my previous visit to Ireland, but I wouldn’t swear on that. My next stop was the Dublin Castle which was about to close, so I didn’t go in but took some pictures of the impressive structure and courtyard. After the castle, I headed to the famous Temple Bar area of the city, right near the river, in search of somewhere appealing to get a good traditional Irish supper. I settled on a place called Gallagher’s Boxty House and ordered a corned beef and cabbage boxty. A boxty, I learned, is a potato pancake and really folks, can you get anymore Irish than that? I think not. After the delicious and filling meal I made my way back to the hotel to crash early for the night since I was still feeling some effects of jet lag.

Swans in St. Stephen's Green
Cool mall
Dublin Castle
Corned beef and cabbage boxty
The next day, being Sunday, I went to Mass at St. Mary’s Pro-Cathedral and then after another visit to Starbucks, I went on a half day tour to Wicklow County. Only one other person signed up for the tour, a lady from Germany, but our awesome tour guide/driver, Damien, didn’t let that stop him from giving an incredible tour. He was so informative and throughout the whole drive (through the city of Dublin and down south throughout the neighboring county) he told us all sorts of interesting facts. For example, as we were driving past Trinity College, he told us how just a few days before, three Vikings were dug up from the street right outside the school. Dublin used to be a Viking city (they gave it its name) so apparently it isn’t too strange of an occurrence to uncover Vikings’ remains. The reason for the digging up of the streets in Dublin is that the tram system that was removed from the city in past decades, is being revived and preparation for the path throughout the city is currently in the works. Then Damien told us how he believes there is a very high possibility those Vikings had been at some point to the Brazen Head Pub (right next to the River Liffey), the oldest pub in Ireland, which has been open since the 12th century and has remained open to this day. Kind of crazy to think that a place the Vikings were frequenting in their leisure time is still standing and open for business as usual in this day and age.
We left the city behind and our first stop in County Wicklow was to Lough Tay. Lough Tay is a glacial lake and from our viewpoint in the Wicklow Mountains it was a breathtaking scene. Lough Tay is also known as Guinness Lake because it borders the Guinness family property and as Damien said, “it’s tall, dark, and black with a white frothy top, just like a pint of Guinness”. Apparently the white sand was imported by the Guinness family just for the purpose of creating the appearance of white foam. The efforts some people will go to; but then again I’m sure they could afford it. After taking some pictures and admiring the view for about fifteen minutes (it was one of the areas where Braveheart and P.S. I Love You were filmed) I was ready to escape the freezing wind and return to the warmth of the van. As we were driving away, Damien pointed out a bed and breakfast down in the valley right next to Lough Tay that is only twenty-five euros a night. Apparently it is a favorite place for him and his wife, particularly because there is no cell reception down there so they can escape from the world, or more importantly, from their three boys. Honestly, it would be super cool to spend a few days there, surrounded by such beauty and for such a small cost.


Wicklow Mountains
Guinness Lake
Our next stop was Glendalough, located within Wicklow Mountains National Park, and the site of an ancient monastic city that was founded in the sixth century. Damien gave us a quick walking tour and pointed out some interesting facts before leaving us to explore more on our own. One really noticeable part of the monastic city was the tower which stands tall above all the other structures and used to have a bell that would ring to announce religious services. The door into the tower is fifteen feet above the ground and according to Damien this was solely due to the fact that if the door was at ground level the building wouldn’t be able to support itself and would collapse. There were some interesting trees that weren’t too much taller than people and apparently it takes hundreds of years for them to get to their present height. Also Damien told us that they have great medicinal purposes. We went inside the cathedral (which was about the size of a chapel) and the roof was completely gone. This was thanks to the Vikings who set fire to the church and the roof, not being of stone, was destroyed. Our guide pointed out, “you only catch the Irish with a problem once, then they are prepared for it the next time around.” So the next church built by the monks had a roof of stone, and stands to this day. Since the monastic city was also the location of a cemetery, I saw lots and lots of celtic crosses for tombstones. However, the oldest tombstones in the cemetery were hardly even recognizable as such and Damien pointed out one of these stones, remarking that I was standing right above the head. Nice. We saw some tombstones that were of people who lived into their hundreds. An impressive feat for back in the 1600s and 1700s when life expectancy was significantly lower.

Monastic City
Once we were left to explore on our own, I headed out of the monastic city and followed a trail around the lakes. Our guide suggested we walk along that specific trail and then when it connected with the road, take the road back to the monastic city. So that’s what I did. It was really beautiful scenery, (that’s Ireland for you), and as I was walking I passed a bunch of bushes with yellow flowers known as gorse. We had seen some gorse earlier when driving and Damien said that it only blooms once a year in April and May, so no one knows why it’s suddenly switching things up and blooming in January. The question is whether it will bloom for a second time in April/May or be done for the year. Strange. It was pretty cold so I walked at a brisk pace but overall it was a very pleasant walk with a nice view of the lake and hills. As I was turning onto the road to head back, there were some sheep in the yard across from me, so I had to snap a couple photos.
View while walking the trail
Gorse
It's just so green!
Hello!
Back in the van, we drove through one of the smallest towns in Ireland. It hasn’t got a single pub, a clear sign that it’s really small. I don’t remember the name of the town (it was in County Wicklow) but it is where actor Daniel Day Lewis lives. Apparently Damien says you can see him all the time out riding his bike or in the local cafe. Some other famous people who live in Wicklow County are Enya (who lives in a castle) and Bono from U2. As we were driving through the countryside, Damien pointed to a hill and said over there one of Ireland’s presidents is buried. He explained how presidents aren’t seen as any different from anyone else in Ireland, so they aren’t buried in some special place, but rather back in the county where they are from. We eventually arrived back in Dublin and the tour came to an end. It was one of the best tours I’ve ever been on and I’d highly recommend Day Tours Unplugged to anyone who is coming to Ireland and wants to take a small group tour. The guide was awesome and I had such a great time that I was bummed when it was over.
The next day I was up bright and early, uh make that dark and early. I had to get to the Northern Ireland tour meeting place by 6:20am and it was a twenty minute walk from my hotel. We were a small group (eleven ladies and the driver/guide) and five of us were solo travelers, so I didn’t feel so alone. Once on the road, it was still pitch black out and I was having a hard time keeping my eyes open, so I was grateful that our guide/driver said he’d let us sleep and wouldn’t talk till we reached the border. At the border we stopped at a gas station where I took out some pounds sterling from the ATM and got a coffee and pastry for the road. We drove past Belfast and didn’t stop again until the Glens of Antrim. The Glens are valleys along the Atlantic coast in County Antrim of Northern Ireland and each Glen has its own little village. We stopped for a half hour break in the Glen known as Glencoy and visited the village Carnlough. It was a cute little fishing town and with the green hills surrounding it and quaint little houses, it was exactly the kind of place you’d expect to see in Ireland. I walked over to a little park/lookout next to the water and took some photos before heading back to the bus.

Carnlough
It sure is green
During our drives through the Glens we were on a coastal road that was known to quite often have parts of the road fall off into the ocean, mostly during storms. There was a small border of rocks separating the road from the ocean below and our guide informed us that all the white rocks were from recently repaired collapses, and let me tell you there were a significant number of white rocks throughout our journey. One time our guide had another tour group with him and the road collapsed right in from of them. Yikes. All I can say is thank goodness we went on a storm free day.
We eventually left the coast and Glens behind and went up into the moorlands. I was at first confused when the driver said “some of the local ladies are crossing the road in front of us”. One look out the window and I knew the “ladies” he was referring to were some sheep that had gone astray. The driver then told us that pretty soon the sheep will be giving birth and this particular breed normally has twins. Also the wool from Irish sheep is too coarse for clothing so it’s either used in construction or something similar. Clothing that is from wool and says made in Ireland, was made in Ireland, but from wool imported mainly from Spain and another country I can’t remember, that have drier climates. I think it’s kind of funny how in every souvenir store in Ireland there are tons of wool products and items with sheep on them, but the wool isn’t even their own. This was news to me.
It's blurry, but these are the "local ladies"
I think the most beautiful stop of the day was the next stop on our journey: Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge and Carrick Island. It had a bunch of cliffs overlooking the ocean and it was just all around breathtaking. Once the driver let us out and gave us a ticket for crossing the rope bridge we all began the twenty minute jaunt to said bridge. I stopped to take some pictures of Sheep Island, a small island that our driver said there’s enough grass for ten sheep to survive on, but with only nine they’d get nice and fat and with eleven, they’d all eventually starve to death. However, no sheep are allowed on Sheep Island because it has become a protected bird habitat. As I walked to the bridge I got to know Kimberly from Canada. She’s a geologist which has taken her to all sorts of cool places: British Columbia, Australia, and Iceland among others. The reason she was in Ireland was two of her geologist friends she’d met in Australia (one from Australia and the other from Ireland) were getting married and she was doing some sightseeing before going to the wedding in Galway. So we chatted and took pictures and admired the gorgeous scenery. Then we arrived at the big attraction: the rope bridge! We turned in our tickets to the guardian of the gate and braved the bridge. Really it was a fun experience and I’m not afraid of heights so I didn’t have a problem with it. Now if heights or swaying rope bridges aren’t your idea of fun then it would probably be best to enjoy it from afar, but overall it felt pretty safe. Once on Carrick Island we snapped more pictures before heading back across the bridge.

Sheep less Sheep Island
Braving the rope bridge
On Carrick Island
A view of the bridge and island from afar
The next stop of the day was to the famous Giant’s Causeway. Basically the Giant’s Causeway consists of tons of hexagonal basalt (volcanic rock) from millions of years ago. However, the more fun Irish legend is about how the giant, Finn McCool, built the causeway to get over to Scotland in order to challenge a Scottish giant to see who was the best. Finn crossed over, saw how large the other giant was and booked it back home. The Scot followed after him but Finn’s wife had him lie down with a blanket and bonnet and when the Scot arrived she said “shh, you’ll wake the baby”. The Scot thought if that was how big the baby was, he didn’t want to see the father and raced back over to Scotland, tearing up the causeway as he went. And the remnants of that causeway are now a World Heritage Site. It was drizzling during the time spent wandering around on the basalt, but it wasn’t enough to actually be a nuisance and being that I was in Ireland, it could have been much worse. I was still hanging out with Kimberly from Canada while exploring the causeway and then our party got even larger with the inclusion of Mariana from Mexico. It was quite a moment when we realized we had the whole of North America covered between the three of us. Then the moment passed and we decided to go eat lunch together at the hotel next to the visitors’ center. There wasn’t much time for lunch since we had to be back at the bus about thirty minutes after we’d sat down in the hotel restaurant, so I ordered the Irish stew since it was already ready to go. Plus I just love Irish stew and let's be real, I'd probably have ordered it anyway, regardless of a rush.

Giant's Causeway

Back on the road, we made a quick stop to take pictures of Dunluce Castle. This castle was the inspiration for Cair Paravel from Narnia and was apparently used in some of the filming for Game of Thrones but with digital enhancements to make it look completely restored. As far as comparing it to Cair Paravel, I couldn’t really see the similarities, (at least to the movie version of the castle), except for they are both right beside the sea. And I’ve never seen the other show so I couldn’t say how much it looked like the version in the show. Some of the history behind Dunluce is that after two families fought for control of it, the McDonnell clan came out the victors. Then, 500 years ago, part of the castle broke off into the sea and the family moved away. It has been uninhabited ever since. The interesting thing is that the home the McDonnell’s moved to has never been discovered, not even a slight little ruin has been found. Yet the castle that had started crumbling into the sea back when they lived there, (while not in the greatest shape) is still standing today.

Dunluce Castle
Finally, our last stop of the day was to the city of Belfast. A few short decades ago, it was not the safest place to be, but all that’s changed now and harmony between Protestants and Catholics has been restored. We only had an hour in the city, so I spent that time trying to see all the things our driver recommended. First stop was Belfast’s City Hall, which was an enormous and beautiful building. I wandered around inside for a little bit, reading memorial plaques and admiring the marble halls. Then it was off to The Crown Liquor Saloon, which is one of the oldest pubs in Northern Ireland and is renowned for its impressive interior decoration, so much so that was purchased by the UK’s National Trust as an important landmark. After a quick look, I headed back out and just across the street was Hotel Europa. We had passed it earlier in the day and our driver told us that it was known as “the most bombed hotel in the world”, yet the hotel takes great pride in saying that they were usually open for business the next day. I looked the hotel up and apparently during the troubles of the 1970s and 80s it had a total of twenty-eight bombings. Yikes! I left the hotel behind and went to St. Anne’s Cathedral. It was pretty dark by this time so sadly my pictures didn’t come out all that well. I didn’t go inside but there were two really notable things on the outside of the church. One side of the building had a gigantic celtic cross, which according to our driver, was the biggest one in all of Ireland. The other interesting thing was the needle-like spire on the top of the building. It was added to the the cathedral after the 9/11 attacks in the US to represent a beacon of hope for the world. I thought that was kinda neat.

Belfast City Hall
St. Anne's Cathedral
Before I knew it, I was getting dropped off back in Dublin and my long but awesome, thirteen hour tour, came to an end. The next day I was at the airport early and by 9am my stay in Ireland was over and I was on my way to Alicante, Spain. Once in Alicante, I caught a bus to Murcia and made it to the flat by early afternoon. I had a great time both at home and in Ireland, but it is nice to have all that traveling behind me and also nice to finally stop living out of a suitcase. I can’t resist, so I leave you with this little Irish wish.
May the luck of the Irish
Lead to happiest heights
And the highway you travel
Be lined with green lights.